SOLAR COOKING NEWS AROUND THE WORLD

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FREE PLANS AND SEVERAL INEXPENSIVE DESIGNS

PLAN A - The beautiful cooker for your party deck

(first an AD that earns you money)

Fresnel Solar Cooker Design

By Ed Norman C.U.S.O. 1980

Introduction

For better resolution photos please click the color photographs.

In areas where sunshine is plentiful and conventional fuels are expensive, like the coast or the sierra of Peru, the solar cooker is an ideal complement to a regular stove. It is cheap, easy to use and requires no fuel. The cooker works by concentrating the power of the sun onto a small area in which a pot or other implement is placed. Under strong sunlight, a litre of tap water can be brought to a rolling boil in about 10 minutes.

The solar cooker consists of 3 main parts. A parabolic reflector serves to concentrate more than one square metre of sunlight into an area about 17 cm in diameter. The control arm allows the reflector to be set facing the sun and holds the pot at the focal point regardless of the reflector tilt angle. The stand holds the other two components together and allows the cooker to be rotated to follow the sun as it moves across the sky.

Materials

The cooker can be made by anyone with experience in simple carpentry and access to basic hand tools. The following is a list of materials needed:

  • One half of a sheet of 'masonite' (saw dust pressboard) 4'x4'
  • 2 ½ metres x 25" of aluminized mylar (metalized plastic)
  • 3 metres x 1"x6" and 12 metres x 1"x2" dry cedar (or other lightweight, non-warping wood), smooth on both sides.
  • Aluminium pot (About 2 litre capacity) blackened on outside, with lid.
  • 115 cm x ¾" aluminium tube.
  • 4 hinges and 4 small casters (with screws)
  • 12x2" and 24x¾" flat-heat wood screws.
  • Assortment of common nails (1", 1½", 2")
  • Wood glue.
  • Contact cement.

In Peru the cost of these materials is about $25 (in 1980)

Reflector Preparation

Cut the plastic in half and layout the two pieces to cover the 4'x4' masonite sheet. Mark the four circles shown in the figure and cut out six semicircular pieces using scissors. Roll up and save each piece. Next, mark the masonite sheet as shown. Starting with the outermost radius cut out the three rings and the gap in each ring. Also make the short radial cuts in the outermost ring. (These act to equalise the curvature when the ring is bent to form a conic section.) Also cut out the three 'joiners' as shown. A hacksaw blade is good for cutting masonite. Finally, smooth all edges with a file.

By bringing together the edges of the gap in each rig, a conic section is formed. The 'joiners' are used to hold the edges together. Glue each joiner to one side of the gap (rough surfaces together). When dry, glue the other side of the gap and joiner, bend the ring to match up the two gap edges and clamp between two blocks of wood until dry as shown. As elsewhere, this construction is easier to do with two people. Glue all three rings this way.

Reflector Support

From the 1"x6" wood stock, cut two reflector supports as shown below (only half is shown; they are symmetric about the centre line). Draw a straight reference line and layout all measurements (in centimetres) from it. On one end of one support, cut the faces that contact the rings an extra 0.3cm deep (dashed lines) to accommodate the extra thickness of the joiners. This will be the top of the reflector. In each support, cut a notch (one on the front and the other on the back) in the centre to allow the two supports to be joined in a cross as explained in the following section.

Reflector Assembly

A) Join the two reflector supports in a cross as shown in the following detail: First glue the auxiliary pieces on each support. When dry, glue the two supports together and hold with screws, making sure that the supports are at right-angles B) Position the outermost ring (#1) on the crossed support structure, with the joiner centred holes. Remove the ring and drill and countersink the holes in the masonite to fit the ¾" flathead screws. Replace the ring in its position, drill guide holes and fasten the ring to the support. Be careful not to twist or warp the rings away from its natural shape. No glue is needed. Make sure that each screw head is flush with the surface. Clean any dust off the aluminized mylar and the front surface of the ring. Spread a thin coat of contact cement on half the rings and one side of the mylar semi-circle. Let the glue dry to the touch. Carefully position the middle of the semi-circle above the ring (easier with two people) then press the mylar onto the ring, working from the middle out to each end. A soft cloth may be used to press out wrinkles and bubbles. Small ripples in the plastic do not matter. Repeat with the other half of the ring. Trim off any excess plastic with a sharp knife. Repeat part B) for the remaining two rings to complete the reflector. Try not to get contact cement on the front surface of the mylar.

Stand and Control Arm

Using the 1"x2" wood stock, construct the stand and control arm of the solar cooker as shown in the following two views. Glue and nail all joints to achieve a strong structure. Mount the four hinges and four castors as shown. Use scrap masonite or plywood for the angle bracket backing. Drill a hole in the end of the control arm to fit the aluminium tube. The angle bracket is shown in detail on the following page.

Angle Bracket

From the remaining 1"x6" wood, cut out the angle bracket as shown. Adjust the dimensions 'x' and 'y' to fit the control arm as shown on the previous page. Drill 27 pin holes 1cm apart starting at the right hand end a shown. Make the holes slightly bigger than a 3" nail, which will be the pin. Construct a tube socket on the end of the bracket to support the aluminium tube. One possibility is shown here. Make sure that the socket will not interfere with the pin latch in the last hole. Mount the angle bracket on the control arm using glue and screws to achieve a solid joint. The bracket should be perpendicular to the plane of the control arm.

Pin Latch

Cut out the pin latch from a piece of tin can as shown. Bend along the dashed lines and nail to the top end of the reflector support. Position the latch to allow the support arm to rest on the angle bracket while the pin (3" nail) goes through both holes in the latch and the last hole in the angle bracket at the same time.

Pot Holder

Flatten the end of the aluminium tube as shown and cut a slot for the pot handle 112.7cm from the other end of the tube.

Final Assembly

Place reflector on the stand and adjust its lateral position so that the pin latch (nailed to reflector support) fits over the angle bracket. Drill guide holes and screw hinges to reflector. Insert aluminium tube in its socket and your solar cooker is finished.

Use of the Cooker

To use the solar cooker, simply hang the pot on the end of the aluminium tube, rotate the stand and adjust the tilt angle of the reflector until the pot's shadow falls in the centre of the reflector. When properly adjusted, there should be no glare from the reflector and the pot handle should not become too hot to hold. For longs cooking times, the cooker will have to be adjusted every ten minutes or so to follow the sun. If a lower heat is required, the cooker may be rotated to move the pot out of the focus or part of the reflector can be covered. When not in use, the cooker should be stored inside, out of the sun or covered with a waterproof cover.

Maintenance

The solar cooker should not be mishandled, overloaded (>5kg) and never left out in the rain or allowed to get wet. Otherwise, the only maintenance it should need is cleaning of the reflector surface. Since the aluminized plastic attracts dust, it should be lightly wiped periodically with a soft, dry cloth, A few grease spots will not seriously affect the performance. If too much dirt and grease accumulates, it can be cleaned off gently with detergent and warm water, followed by drying with a soft towel.

Please visit my Peru Children's Trust to contact me directly.

I am aware that the some of the Solar Stoves we built in Peru were quite small (0.4 m2) and possibly not sufficiently large enough to cook for the Peruvian sized families. Next time I shall take a larger suitcase to fit bigger sheets of aluminium or source the material locally. Detailed below are drawings and downloads of the Solar 1000 design. This design is based on solar area of 1 m2 that equates to approximately 1000 Watts of solar energy (2.5 time the heat of our Peruvian stove). Each rib is 0.1 m apart and 11 ribs are required to make the shape (including the two wooden ends). Each rib has a different radius depending on its location.

Click the image for complete plans for this 1000 watt solar cooker.

PLAN B - The inexensive cardboard and foil cooker for your desert retreat

Construction of Parvati solar cooker (Twelve sided) is given below. This is Modified Dual angled Funnel Cooker made in 12 sections. This is similar to DATS design of Teong H. Tan.There is one minor difference between design of these two cookers. Apperture size of Teong H. Tan's cooker is 36 inches while that of Parvaticooker is 24 inches and ratio of length of sides. Solar ray reflection of both the cookers is shown in Fig A and B. We have not done comparative study between these two designs so far.
Fig. A : DATS ( Teong H. Tan)

Fig. B : Parvati Cooker.

Dimensions of single section are given in Fig.1. These dimensions are for cooker having rim diameter of 2 feet. For rim diameter of 3 feet and 4 feet multiply these dimensions by 1.5 and 2 respectively.

Fig1.

To simplify the construction we decided to make it out of single sheet of aluminum or cardboard instead of making multiple section and joining them together. Apart from simplifying construction this strengthened the cooker.

Take a rectangular sheet of dimension 24” * 48”. Draw a semicircle of 24” radius. Divide this semicircle into 12 equal parts by replicating 12 times the drawing of single section. Complete drawing resembles as shown is fig 3. The drawn portion is cut along the edge. You will have the sheet now as shown in fig 2.

Click to enlarge.
Click to enlarge.
Next you have to bend this to form solar cooker. First bend the “A” parts of all sections to the angle of 135 degrees with part “B”. Then bend part “B” of all sections to the angle of 165 degrees with Part “C”.

Now start bending all “C” parts on the inner side so that each “C” part makes an angle of 165 degrees with next one. After bending is complete join together two ends of “C” parts by using paper strip and glue. For aluminum sheet use nut bolt and connecting strips.

All “B” parts will form the lower cone while all ”A” parts will form the part of base. A circular disc of the diameter of 7" has to be fitted to bring together all “A” parts. For cardboard paste the ring. Then paste reflective paper or aluminum foil. For aluminum cooker aluminum disc has to be bolted. The photograph of aluminum disc bolted is shown in the photograph. This completes the construction of Cooker. The inner surface of aluminum cooker will need polishing and protective coating.

PLAN C - The camping cooker for your car and travels

Windshield Shade Solar Funnel Cooker

While experimenting with various designs of cookers over the past year to introduce in the indigenous communities where I live and work in southern Mexico, I hit upon an utterly simple way to make an instant portable solar oven. Taking a reflective accordion-folded car windshield shade, you can turn it into a version of the solar funnel, by simply sewing on little Velcro tabs along the long notched side. Here’s how:.

Materials needed:.

A reflective accordion-folding car sunshade.
A Cake rack (or wire frame or grill).
12 cm. (4 ½ in.) of Velcro.
Black pot.
Bucket or plastic wastebasket.
A plastic baking bag.

Lay the sunshade out with the notched side toward you, as above..

Cut the Velcro into three pieces, each about 4 cm. or 1 ½ inches long..

Hand sew one half of each piece, evenly spaced, onto the edge to the left of the notch; sew the matching half of each piece onto the underneath size to the right of the notch, so that they fit together when the two sides are brought together to form a funnel. (see below) Note: I first tried sewing these on a sewing machine, but found it cut through the reflective material..

Press the Velcro pieces together, and set the funnel on top of a bucket or a round or rectangular plastic wastebasket..

Place a black pot on top of a square cake rack, placed inside a plastic baking bag. A standard size rack in the U.S. is 25 cm. (10 in.). This is placed inside the funnel, so that the rack rests on the top edges of the bucket or wastebasket. Since the sunshade material is soft and flexible, the rack is necessary to support the pot. It also allows the suns rays to shine down under the pot and reflect on all sides. If such a rack is not available, a wire frame could be made to work as well. Note: the flexible material will squash down around the sides of the rack..

The funnel can be tilted in the direction of the sun..

A stick placed across from one side of the funnel to the other helps to stabilize it in windy weather. (see below).

After cooking, simply fold up your “oven” and slip the elastic bands in place for easy travel or storage..

I have found this totally simple solar oven extremely practical, as it is so lightweight and easy to carry along anywhere. But in addition, it has reached a higher temperature in a shorter time than all the other models I have experimented with so far (I haven’t used a parabolic) - a little above 350 degrees F. I have cooked black beans in about the same amount of time as on a gas stove; I’ve used it to bake breads, granola, brownies, lasagna, all sorts of vegetables, and to purify water. The sunshade may not be available everywhere, but I suspect it can be found in most urban areas, since I found it here in southern Mexico. The Velcro was also available in fabric stores. Cost of the sunshade was about $3.00 USD; the Velcro about $.25..

Kathy Dahl-Bredine.
Apdo. 1332.
Oaxaca, OAX 68000.
kpdbmx@gmail.com.

PLAN D - The quickie-hot-dog at the ballpark cooker for your friends and family to marvel at just how clever you are.

The Pentagon Star Cooker

I am teaching unemployed people how to make and use solar cookers in KwaZulu-Natal. We have clear winters and cloudy summers and the people I have been helping have little or no money. I developed this cooker for use here and it works so well that I felt it would be of use else ware.

This is a great cooker. Out side the tropics a straight panel cooker battles on all but the best days and this cooker takes advantage of lower sun angles in morning and afternoon. Being more efficient it makes up for the odd cloud in the day. It is stable in wind and if put together with paper fasteners can fold down flat for storage. Seasonal changes are made by adjusting the side flaps up or down.



Most medium sized boxes work, a short side of 350 mm to 500 mm and a height slightly more than the width works best. Four short cuts and a few simple folds is all that is required there is no waste and a whole box is used.

Paint the un-foiled sections of the cooker to guard against moisture.

To cook, place food in a black pot or black painted jar, place the food and container in an oven bag close up with a clothes peg and place on card board scrap in the back corner of the reflector. Now place in full sun and adjust straight into the sun by the cookers shadow.


Richard Pocock
Solarworks
81 Archer Crescent
Manor Gardens
Durban 4001
KwaZulu-Natal
South Africa

edufun1@iafrica.com

PLAN E - Less folds means less adjusting for movement of the sun

PLAN F - FOR FREEEZING FOGGY DAYS!

THE WINIARSKI ROCKET STOVE

In the last 13 years, variations of the Rocket Stove have been built in over 20 countries.

Efficiency: 12-42%. The efficiency depends on type of a heat exchanger used.

Construction: Simple to construct with a number of different materials. The simplest Rocket Stove can be built with thick tin cans and wood ash (5,000 of these were built in refugee camps in Zaire).

Material costs: $0-$20 US. In Honduras we made a simple refugee version of this stove for approximately $1.50 US in material costs.

Life expectancy: Is 2 weeks to ten years depending on the materials used.

The Rocket elbow can be made from different materials to improve its durability. We have used sand/clay (Lorena), pumice/concrete, heavy steel pipe, 430 stainless steel or special heat resistant ceramic. Currently all of our stoves in Honduras are built with this type of refractory ceramic.

Each of our wood cookstoves incorporates a unique combustion chamber. This is how the Rocket elbow works:

This elbow is then placed inside of a container that is filled with insulation . The container can be made from almost any material. We have used 5 gallon drums, brick, clay, cement. For insulation we suggest using wood ash or pearlite, or pumice,. Do not use massive things such as earth, sand,or cement. These will rob heat from the stove and reduce your combustion efficiency.

For optimal use we recommend a 9" chimney and a 4" fuel feed magazine.

The Rocket stove is an improvement over the three stone fire but it is only one part of the equation. In order to really save fuel wood we must maximize the heat transfer to the pot.

This picture shows a thin piece of metal (a skirt) wrapped around the pot. This skirt forces the hot flue gases to rub against the bottom and the sides of the pots. The gap between the pot and the skirt should be about 1cm (assuming you are using an average-sized pot). In our tests, this simple heat exchanger (an old coffee can works well!) almost doubles the efficiency of the rocket stove.

PLAN G - FOR TECHIES - ADD A CHEAP TRACKER!

THE SOLAR TRACKER

THE TRACKER CONTROLS

The heart of the Tracking Solar Oven is the electronic control.

A Very simple control may be built from a photo diode (Electric Eye) and 12 volt DC relays.

Most of the parts are available at local radio parts stores.

The photocell battery charger that works well is the new thin film, glass-encased type that produces 18 to 20 volts and measures only 6 inchs square.

The batteries are simple AA nickel cadmium rechargeable cells in series to produce 12 to 15 volts at 50 to 80 milliamperes. The photo diode (Electric Eye) is really a photo-transistor using only the emitter and collector leads which conduct electricity in the presence of light.

A simple shadowbox will shade the electric eye when the oven is focused on the sun and will cause the motor to stop. At first, the photo diode is far too sensitive.

To adjust the sensitivity black silicone can be dabbed over its surface then removed with a toothpick until it responds only to direct sunlight. The reset switch will send the motor into reverse until the sunrise switch is tripped.

The oven is now positioned for the next day. A wind-up 12-hour timer switch on the reset switch will allow timed cooking; it sends the cooker to the sunrise setting when done and even sounds a buzzer.

Conventional solar trackers are available and can be adapted for use on this or almost any other solar cooking oven.

The base should be cylindrical shaped with a flat side for the door. Since the oven is supported by the base, the material used should be strong enough not only to hold the weight of the oven but support it during high winds as well.

The motor is a critical part of the design. A 12 to 24 volt DC reversible gear head motor is needed which turns at 1 to 5 R.P.M.

To further slow the turning rate of the oven, a chain and sprocket with a ratio of about 3 to 1 seems to work very well for final turning speed of 1 to 1/2 R. P. M. The large sprocket should be placed on the shaft connected to the oven base between leather washers to form a slip clutch to protect the drive motor and for safety reasons.

PLAN H - HAVE-A-FEAST - COOKING HINTS!

Learn to cook with more than one jar at a time.

Start with the longest-cooking food, and when it is boiling, add more jars. Learn which foods (grains, potatoes, squash, lentils, etc.and what quantities of them— you can cook in one pass, so you can cook when you are gone all day. Learn cooking patterns that fit your lifestyle.

Beans: Use 2¼ cups of water for 1 cup of beans.

If you boil them actively over a long time, add more water.

Pintos take the longest.

Grains: Most grains cook better if you preheat the water in the solar cooker for an hour or so.

Use a two-to-one water-to-grains ratio.

Long grain rice can be put in the cooker in cold water.

Vegetables: These cook in jars with little or no water, or they can be added to beans and grains.

Potatoes and sweet potatoes cook well on the rack, if lightly oiled.

Otherwise, put them in jars.

Winter squash cooks in its own skin.

Corn on the cob steam-bakes in its own sheath.

Bread: Bread cooks best in dark, one-pound coffee cans.

Oil the cans.

Let dough rise in the cooker without collectors attached, then add the collectors when you’re ready to bake.

Bread shrinks, so it will come out of the cans with a gentle tapping when it’s done.

Pizza and pies: Bake the crust first.

Try jams, cinnamon rolls, cake, corn bread, cookies, and other munchies, as well.

When the food is cooked, you can fold the collectors down over the glass.

This provides good insulation, so the food stays hot until you are ready to eat.